Gabriele Colangelo’s spring collection was like a cold drink of water on a very hot day — and not just because the weather in Milan has been at high summer temps all week. His colors were coolly vivid, a mix of optic white, indigo, orange, ice blue, jade and khaki, and his lines were an update on clean, Nineties utilitarianism with a slight techno accent.

White shirts, jackets and slips were treated with artful indigo tie-dye, one of the season’s big trends, here done with colors that looked fresh and intense with each other. Sheer slips were layered over pants and plaid shirts for a neo-grunge effect, and tailoring came with structured pleats and contrast-stitched seaming that struck a note of crafty industrial rawness.


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