What is “The Shape of Color”? Languid, at least when the colors are gentle and aglow with iridescence. So determined Giorgio Armani, who on Sunday, the last day of the Milan collections, sent the fashion pack packing with a lovely, soothing collection.
While the title of the show might have foreshadowed something bombastic, Armani went contrary to that more obvious expectation. His invitation often hints at his direction and did so here — an image of a fabric piece, its icy pink and silver shadow stripes arranged in soft folds. In fact, silvery gray formed the base of the collection. It came in materials shot with luminescence and reflective of the amorphous pinks and blues in delicate metallics and embroideries, with which it was often combined. Most fabrics were airy enough so that even those with innate structure retained a sense of movement, which, combined with the plays of light, created a discreet, otherworldly subtext. Accent on the discreet, because, as always in Armaniland, these were clothes for the designer’s ladies not only to dream about, but to wear.
They will have plenty of options — if not color-wise (with a palette this appealing, who needs range?) — then certainly in terms of looks. Working with a linear but languid silhouette, Armani went the wardrobe diversity route: tony anorak (today, even the gentlest runway can accommodate an athletic reference); relaxed jacket over pants; dream-sequence dresses, including a cocktail beauty with a large 3-D flower on the bodice; and a long, sheer white shirtdress sprinkled randomly with paillettes, its waist cinched with barely there plastic. For evening, Armani introduced stronger pinks and indigos while retaining the same deft touch. And if the veiled metallic bicycle shorts qualify for tricky-pants-du-jour honors, he more than made up for it with gloriously embroidered gowns and an alluring backless jumpsuit with a plunging neckline. Serenity with sizzle. Now that’s a send-off.