Over the past few seasons, Phillip Lim has flexed his strength for melding references that seem to have less-than-zero in common to suit the nomadic global woman he imagines as his muse. For spring, the worlds of Berber textiles and Courrèges’ spacey Sixties collided. Actually, it was more of a friendly merger.
Instead of piling up as he did for fall, Lim pared down. “Coming from the previous collection where we unpacked a suitcase, I wanted to shed a little bit but keep that nomadic vibe,” he said backstage. The elements he chose to work with from each genre were quite clear. He let the spare palette, smooth, undulating curves and abbreviated shapes of Sixties Pop frame the rustic Berber textures — fringe, woven stripes, shearling — with a clean modernity. It made for a collection that was highly designed but ultimately wearable, which is the bull’s-eye in the advanced contemporary market.
Silhouettes veered from short and neat to long and loose, always cut with a purist’s eye. A woven striped vest with fringe trim was worn over a silver metallic bra top with a curvy silver button and clean white trousers. A white tailored blazer was elongated into a maxi coat with layers of fringe inspired by a Berber carpet and worn over a black tank dress with a curved neckline. The precise lines of a silver crochet caftan made it fit for a minimalist Barbarella on vacation.