For his first combined men’s and women’s show, Hugo Boss designer Ingo Wilts blended both collections as seamlessly as he did the brand’s trademark tailored looks with a fresh take on sportswear. Wilts said that while the spring collection was “grounded in suiting,” it targeted a young customer and so offered up more casual options inspired by Los Angeles as well. Wilts infused the line with a soothing color palette of washed pinks, pale blues and stark white that was grounded by burgundy and navy in relaxed silhouettes to impart “a very light, easygoing feel.” Suits were made from crinkled cotton and paper-touch cloth, while coats and jackets in a glossy nylon took on a crisp texture.
Surf, an extension of the L.A. inspiration, also influenced the collection and was evident in the details. Pants, blouses and backless dresses were fastened with long drawstrings while a woman’s jumpsuit and men’s short-sleeve tops had long zipper pulls that mimicked those of a wetsuit. Wilts also offered up his take on board shorts and rash guards in technical nylon. Athletic stripes and a pattern abstracted from L.A. city maps adorned standout knitwear, cropped for men and ultrathin for women, as well as a great short-sleeve women’s leather dress.
The show closed with a white story of suiting and lightweight dresses that Wilts said offered up “a little more sophistication” but with the same “airy, beautiful and healthy L.A. vibe.” The collection didn’t stray too far from its elegant roots, but Wilts managed to evolve it into one that incorporates the multifaceted lives of the Hugo Boss man and woman.