Dion Lee specializes in sleek and sexy. For spring, he made sure to offer up allure with a polished bent. He homed in on privacy as the watchword influencing the aesthetic mood, showing a stellar collection underscored by refined deconstruction and reconstruction. “Privacy just felt like a really interesting touch point in terms of how people approach their bodies and communicate themselves,” he said postshow.
He expanded on last season’s idea of fusing lingerie into clothing, playing with lace barriers to control what people see and don’t see. “We built these underpinnings into the clothes,” he added. “The idea was to blur them together so you couldn’t really tell which was the garment, which was the lingerie.” A black cutout dress, for instance, featured a delicate lace slip underneath that appeared inseparable.
It made for a beautiful lineup that challenged the eye. The opening tailored jackets illustrated the idea best: asymmetric, constructed with the illusion of being pulled back, or with halves to show different parts of the body. In a rare move, he managed to inject sensuality into tailoring. He kept looks in rich tonals to highlight the nuanced cuts.
In addition to Lee, we’ve seen a number of designers this season playing with deconstruction in elevated turns away from streetwear. He stands out for keeping silhouettes clean and unfussy. Best examples: cutout jumpsuits with the look of a blazer and trousers, connected by a midriff hook that could be undone to wear tops on their own — they were unexpected, sexy and modern.