The attitude of Naeem Khan’s vibrant show was young and light. The theme — a personal one — was of an immigrant in America blending his Indian heritage with Western ideas of glamour.
Backstage before the show, Khan detailed his various influences: “It’s my journey through the Seventies and Eighties, Truman Capote’s Black and White ball; color, which is so important because it makes you happy, and the way I mixed it together.” In show notes, he listed a few more points: “my first impressions of this city,” “its clash of culture in the underground,” and “Studio 54.”
There was a thread of ease to silhouettes not often associated with Khan’s world of high-glam evening. In fact, it targeted young women just about to enter that world who want a side of casualness with their glitz. There were sleek slipdresses with embroidered bodices; embellished T-shirts tucked into fluid sequined skirts; a fully beaded blazer with loose beaded shorts, or the opening black gown with alluring slashes inspired by the work of artist Lucio Fontana. The jersey dresses that immediately followed were stellar, and winked at a Halston reference.
“It’s not technically streetwear, but still taking simple things like a T-shirt and mixing it with other things,” he continued. (Not sure anyone could imagine a Naeem Khan take on streetwear, though he did send out a bright-red, fully beaded, sheer tracksuit.)
The blend of cultures and youthful spirit was most apparent when Khan took the idea of a sari, made it sheer, injected it with bold red and styled it over fluid pants. Young ’uns, place your orders.