Andrew Gn is something of a magpie when it comes to collecting art and antiques, and his collection inspirations often reflect that. For spring, he namechecked Sixties model Veruschka, the Bloomsbury Group and Russian artist Kazimir Malevich. What do they have in common, one might ask?
For one, a bold approach to pattern and ornamentation, which were the foundations of this lineup. The opening look, a fringed poncho dress with a graphic black-and-white motif, was a continuation of his resort line. Gn is on something of a mission to bring back monochrome clothes in an Internet age obsessed with color.
He showed how that minimal palette could be made compelling for online shoppers by using white as a bold accent, such as a bib studded with metal eyelets on a bell-sleeved black cocktail dress, or as a decorative element, in the shape of folkloric guipure lace patterns on a fringed zippered coat dress.
At the same time, he didn’t shy away from bold color statements, via retro-tinged brocade — as seen on a bubblegum-pink coat with oversize crystal buttons — or the vibrant jewel-hued gowns that capped the display, including a rippling peridot-colored tunic worn with electric blue python boots.
Seasonal trends may come and go, but Gn operates on a different level. Like the rare porcelain and antique kimonos he collects, the designer likes to think of each item of clothing as a potential heirloom piece.
“We’re living in a world full of wastage and disposable fashion. Since the very beginning of my career, I’ve been trying to design something very beautifully crafted, beautifully designed, that women will keep for years,” he said backstage. “It’s my own way of contributing to sustainability in fashion today.”
That happens to be exactly how his customers like it. Gn spent part of the summer in Aspen, where his brand did brisk business in trunk shows with a stealth wealth clientele. This collection of future classics should keep them coming back for more.