Thin veils covered models’ faces as they marched down the runway at the Palais de Chaillot. As has been the case in most Ann Demeulemeester collections, whether under the helm of its namesake designer or as seen by Sebastien Meunier, silhouettes were almost exclusively black and white.
Appliquéd flowers on jacket lapels felt unnecessary, as did chains wrapped around waists and across torsos. The raw hemlines combined with sleeves trailing past models’ fingers were very on brand.
Minute details in unexpected places managed to catch the eye: a white jacket discreetly tied back with a piece of rope, a cascading cotton dress revealing a row of buttons along the rear. A pristine shirt worn off the shoulder over a sheer tulle dress was haunting.
The beauty was in the powder tones. A billowing satin trench coat, first in light pink then in a Champagne hue, was a welcome addition, as was a luscious, white silk skirt worn with a sheer blush blouse. Both looks were understated but poetic. A couple of striped suits in boxy shapes added structure to a free-flowing collection.
Accessories were a focal point: gleaming black patent boots just-seen under a flowing cotton skirt; shoes elegantly tied up the ankle with ribbons; and leather harnesses hugging shift dresses. These seemed warrior-like, with a caramel-colored dress with its matching harness lending the silhouette a Joan of Arc vibe.