Marianna Rosati crafted an underwater world for spring, peopled with mermaids and ancient statues buried deep below the ocean, only visible through the distortion of the waves.

Her core register, leather, was thus ruched into ultra-feminine bodice shapes, as on a strapless catsuit in a vivid peacock blue, or ruffled as the straps of a cute pinafore dress in olive green. A mint green leather was given the appearance of a fish’s scales on a tailored jacket and matching shorts, while the motif was evoked less literally with iridescent sequins on other looks in a collection dominated by shell-like pastel shades.

By way of contrast, printed flou elements peopled with underwater scenes both abstract and literal softened certain looks and brought others into more Pop Art territory, mirrored in the more structured leather coats and dresses with accents of hot pink and lime green.

Those shades could perhaps be seen as a bridge to the cycling shorts that accompanied several looks. While right on trend, these were rather less convincing.

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