Understated luxury is the code word for Dusan Paunovic’s collection, constructed from high-end fabrics that are the building blocks for his cathedral of minimalism. For spring, the Serbian-born designer worked in a muted color palette of neutrals, working a raw-edged beige and cream herringbone linen, for example, into an elegant yet relaxed spaghetti-strap dress.

Superlight cashmere and silk knits, wide-legged linen culottes and Japanese hand-pressed lamé skirts, all staples in the Dušan vocabulary, were the backbone of the lineup. The outerwear was also strong, as demonstrated with a camel Loro Piana water-repellent cashmere coat with lining and contrasting Mao collar in white neoprene.

His patchworks of supersoft silk scarf prints in a palette of navy, forest green and dusty pink, used on flowing pants and sleeveless tops with a simple tie at the back of the neck, worked a treat.

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