Kym Ellery drew on Paul Kos’ sound installation “Sound of Ice Melting” for her spring collection. “I really like the idea that it was a little bit existential and made you think about, ‘Yeah, what would that be like?’” she said during her presentation. “I think of the Ellery woman as quite intellectual, and I wanted to create a collection of wearable but unique pieces that are for women who are inquisitive and thinkers.”
Mission accomplished. Ellery built her brand around restrained retro-futurism and bold volumes that elevate her clothes beyond the immediately accessible. They’re anchored in classics — tailoring, feminine poufs and flared pants — but exaggerated beyond the basic. For spring, she worked in icy, fresh colors, such as silver, gray, yellow and pool blue. A long silver foiled trench had a slight feminine flare to its shape and was worn over a sunny yellow knit top. A gray knit shirtdress in an ultralight weave had a zip polo collar and a loose, asymmetric hem. What looked like a classic blue-and-white toile de jouy on a blazer and matching pants featured dinosaurs rather than 18th-century pastoral scenes. A crop top with modernly puffed sleeves was encrusted with snowflake embroidery. Everything was ultimately quite wearable. It didn’t require deep thoughts to get it, but it will take a bit of confidence to carry it off.