The night the whole of fashion converged to a nightclub near Les Invalides for Hedi Slimane’s first show at Celine, a new fashion collective was paying homage to a different kind of Paris.
Young, a little grimy, loud and proud: the crowd at La Station — Gare des Mines was the main inspiration for Gamut’s first fashion show. One of the members is a programmer for the alternative open-air venue, located at the Porte d’Aubervilliers in Northwest Paris, and wanted to celebrate its unique aesthetic.
The collective — five designers plus a stylist and an art director, who all prefer to remain anonymous — met at La Cambre fashion school in Brussels, yet are all French nationals. They graduated between 2015 and 2017, and formed Gamut in December last year.
Stemming from a love of tailoring — “streetwear is everywhere so we wanted to see something else,” said a member backstage — the collection is gender fluid, with some pieces switching from male to female models at the last minute. “We’re interested in the different layers that make up a garment. We focused on eveningwear, as we wanted to create clothes to go out in,” the collective explained.
Flaming red-haired Dustin Muchuvitz opened the show. Metallic gloves peppered silhouettes, while the Gamut logo was sprawled over a long dress and coat. Dark pin-striped suit parts — trouser legs, sleeveless jackets — were mixed with bright knits. There were cagoules and ruffled baseball caps, cycling shorts and deconstructed jackets, long duster coats over tiny shorts.
Gamut might present seasonal collections, but then again it might not. “We like to work spontaneously. The good thing about being a collective is that it becomes a bit of a collage, which allows us to constantly reinvent our work within our own group,” one of the designers said. “A month ago, we didn’t even know what the collection would look like.”