Jessica Rabbit inspired the sweetheart necklines and My Little Pony much of the line’s palette — although Kévin Germanier did dabble in black for the first time on a couple of the evening looks.
This season, the designer’s signature bead formations weren’t just decorative, they also had a function, holding into place the form of the corset tops. “There is no boning, it’s super light,“ said Germanier, who also used beaded patches to secure draped flourishes.
The designer’s collage minidresses had an aura of dated Eighties glamour filtered through a twentysomething’s eyes. (Think a beaded dress with a sharp, deep décolleté and black ruched organza skirt at the back layered over a black logo T-shirt, or a look pairing a tight checked pencil skirt with a beaded panel and a bubble-gum pink draped knit that felt a little “Dynasty” revisited.)
Also presented were a capsule of tonal beaded heels and leather thigh boots designed in collaboration with Christian Louboutin, using dead-stock and leftover materials, and a group of minidresses made using recycled Swarovski Hot Fix rhinestones, loose beads mixed with ostrich feathers and mesh.
The knitwear elements, including an emerald green spaghetti strap top in a glittery thread made from PET bottles, showed promise, as did the overall collection, even if it’s still very early on in the process for Germanier.