Transporting her audience, as always, Hyun Mi Nielsen took to a darker place this season. Wearing strange wooden clogs with pointy toes and covered in studs — a collaboration with shoe designer Zoe Lee — models moved briskly around the room, the clip-clopping accompanied by the gentle clinking of swaying metal embellishments. Underneath the profusion of hardware, black leather, piercings and chokers — in motion, all of it — sat a compelling lineup of fresh silhouettes that conveyed beauty of an uncommon sort.
“I have this thing about light and dark,” she said, pointing to her childhood in Denmark where the winters are very dark and the summers are very light.
Still focused on her magpie collector, who can’t resist a shiny object that catches her eye, she obsessed over rivets. They decorated the clothing, gravitating to different parts of the body, covering an entire cape in one case and even stuck onto bare skin, broadening her territory.
Lightness came in the form of billowing silk, recalling her last haute couture collection — she now prefers to show her collections on the ready-to-wear calendar to better connect with clients. It came in a sparsely colored tie-dye with shades of brown and a light purple, made into a frock and with patches of black leather rivets on the neck.
“I always have this light and darkness within my collection and also within myself,” she said after the show.