The designer in the gender-fluid, handiwork-intensive collection explored the concept of the east interpreted through a western filter. In particular, he looked to the creations of an American carpet manufacturer from the Thirties “who copied Chinese rugs.”
The designer challenged himself in the handiwork-intensive, textured collection, working with a weird palette of hues including deep purple, pistachio and mint that was outside of his comfort zone. The show set — a dingy garage with industrial lights and a wet floor sprinkled with eucalyptus oil — was equally strange.
A glitched jacquard suit in a carpet motif had a “foggy” aspect to it. Elsewhere, an eye-catching mesh dress came needle-punched with yellow silk thread, playing on the idea of forcing organic fibers into synthetic fibers.
The showpiece was an elaborate black and silver sequined robe dress, produced by hand in a workshop in Shanghai, bearing the face of an imaginary avatar.
A matching shirt and pant in a liquid mesh bonded with suiting fabric to create a wet-look effect, which was at once structured and light with an iridescence, offered the most compelling and wearable spin on the appearance-versus-reality theme.