Black, white, genderless, asymmetrical: At first glance, Y’s spring collection could seem quite predictable. But the design studio — the collection is designed by Yohji Yamamoto’s team — cleverly chose to focus on the fabrics to elevate its signature silhouettes, and the effect was a bit like playing a game of spot-the-difference.
Black gabardine, a house staple, was hand-cut to form snowflake-like patterns on jackets and trousers. Unnoticeable on a hanger, the pattern on a long sleeveless jacket is revealed once worn over a white shirt or against bare skin.
Tiny twists were added to seemingly innocent pieces: A belted trench can be fastened either from the inside or the outside, depending on the desired look, and an oversized white shirt zips up the side. Straps can be moved up and down on a black sleeveless dress just by unbuttoning a notch or two.
Other additions were less subtle. Hand-bleached velvet pieces in forest green and royal blue had an almost galactic look, while two cupro anoraks were impossible to miss: one was fuchsia and the other periwinkle, two colors the studio had never used before.
The second chapter of the collection was more youth-oriented and a bit less focused. Spotted silk scarves were turned into flowing trousers, a jacket was covered in Aztec motifs ,while a skirt bore black-on-black polka dots (they were made visible by the difference in material). Shoes were flat and androgynous, including a pair from the continued collaboration with Dr. Martens.