Parked in Polynesia — he hitched a ride from last season’s inspiration, Captain James Cook — Zuhair Murad turned to Tiki Tattoo patterns for his spring collection, which was presented at the house showroom. Given its prevalence in popular culture the world over, it seemed an unlikely choice for a label that tends to operate in more precious territory.
Embracing the challenge nonetheless, Murad forged ahead and pressed them into his beaded, tulle’d and ruffled world. He used red, black and white sequins to draw these graphic patterns onto a caftan blouse, cinched at the waist with a black belt. He let a bit of the island influence drift into the silhouettes, too, giving the skirt of one dress an extra pouf, reflecting the ample amounts of fabric used for the skirts there. Rafia fringes, in black, were also part of the new exploration, softening the edges of the formal cuts, on the waist of a short romper and the bodice of a long dress.
Sexy beaded body suits carried the pattern as well, one in black and white and another in nude and white.
Purple tropical flowers were another pattern running through the lineup, drawn with beaded embroidery but also printed on an airy silk caftan dress, one of the handsomer pieces.