Turkish born and London-based designer Dilara Findikoglu expresses her complex feelings about a world in political and environmental chaos via her subversive take on fashion.

Four crosses made of straw stood in the show space while a red cross with a circle was hand-painted on the wall. A woman walked out in a Diane Pernet-style layered black ensemble and pointy hairdo and gave a rumination on the current state of the planet.

Findikoglu is known for her religious-inspired and dark looks, with historic costume references. There were four parts to the collection – Earth, air, fire and water represented Mother Earth; the spirit of the age, politics and religion; deconstruction and conflict, and the unknown and the solution to current problems, respectively.

A red cross shape topped with a low waist dress opened the show, which was followed by various shapes of bejeweled corsets and deconstructed court dresses. James Jeanette from the band Wild Daughter showcased an impressive hybrid between a corseted one-piece swimsuit and a suit, for example. Despite the theatrical elements, her tailoring pieces and dresses were well made.

The designer said the low waist, a new shape introduced this season, was inspired by the early portrayals of Jesus on the cross as he was wearing a low-waisted loincloth.

There was a baby on the runway, too, carried by his mother. Findikoglu said she was going for the Notre Dame, the blessed Virgin Mary. “This is my way of showing hope,” she said.

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