One of London’s hottest young names, Matty Bovan turned down the flame for spring with a collection that was uncharacteristically subdued, with muted, industrial colors, a host of street-meets-sport silhouettes and a sci-fi touch in the form of eerie lens-like panels by Stephen Jones that magnified models’ faces.

It wasn’t the usual joyous romp of a collection with prints and flying colors, rich textures, and lush, bouncing crinolines. It was a more sober outing, with the ever-curious and creative Bovan taking a look at some of his other obsessions, like everyday uniforms and utilitarian pieces — hospital scrubs, cleaners’ coats and flight suits and life jackets.

The silhouettes were leaner, too, with Bovan focusing on bigger tops and slimmer bottoms. He paired leg-of-mutton sleeves in fluorescent brights with biker pants or whipstitch trousers and leather boots. He slipped mint and lavender cotton dresses over hospital scrub combos, and distorted his usual Scarlett O’Hara skirts with rip wires or fabric-covered chunks of foam.

It was creativity in motion, and a gutsy designer taking a chance. But while good ideas were there — the rigor of a uniform, Liberty prints large and small, big, wild raggedy skirts — it didn’t hang together.

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