For a designer committed to a sustainable mission like Phoebe English, one should expect the human element to be taken into consideration as much as the fashion. Yet guests attending the brand’s spring presentation were squeezed into a tiny basement, with many leaving before they even caught a glimpse of English’s coed lineup.

Those who stayed were eventually offered relaxed, roomy silhouettes and fabric experimentations. Standout pieces in the women’s line, dominated by black and white, were crafted using off-cut leftovers from the brand’s previous season trapped inside organza to create a delicate textile. A white organza oversize jacket layered over a matching long dress featured inlays of care labels that created an interesting pattern.

The men’s offering focused on boxy button-down shirts and shorts made of reclaimed mismatched printed fabrics renewed with a natural indigo overstain. Waterproof jackets and shorts in regenerated nylon derived from ocean plastic waste also appeared in mustard tones.

“The first season we made a collection of 20 percent reclaimed materials, the second collection they were 40 percent and with this collection, we have reached 60 to 70 percent,” said English, who aims to move away from using new materials in her collections.

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