Roksanda Ilincic was back on familiar ground for spring, taking over the Serpentine Gallery’s pavilion, designed by Japanese architect Junya Ishigami.
Ilincic has often used the Serpentine’s pavilions as a backdrop for her collections and used the works of artists and architects to inform the bold colors and sculptural shapes that have become collection signatures.
This season was no different. Referencing the bright shades of Cristo’s barrel sculpture at the Serpentine or the romantic watercolor paintings by Mary Weatherford, the designer sprinkled striking pops of color throughout her spring collection, from the coral ribbon flowing over a neutral-toned maxidress, to a head-to-toe red ruffled poplin midi number and the series of crinkled taffeta gowns featuring abstract, graffiti-like patterns.
“It’s wonderful that in London right now there’s a merger of different artistic disciplines: Art, fashion, music, literature, poetry. Everyone is somehow blurring the boundaries and becoming one, which is a very positive thing coming out of this negative time. That’s why I wanted to bring the collection back to the Serpentine Pavilion and bring in architecture and art,” said the designer backstage.
Elsewhere, Ilincic took a different turn with a shift to a more laid-back, practical approach.
Cue extra-large boiler suits and shirts, soft tailoring in muted gray and biscuit hues and sporty, color-block parkas, layered over maxi dresses to add a more casual touch and featuring removable sleeves for extra practicality.
“I wanted to concentrate on easy day wear and move in a slightly more tailored direction for me. I always played with contrast and masculine shapes in my work and this is just taking it a step further,” added the designer.
By melding her signature femininity with more casual or traditionally masculine elements, Ilincic added a hefty dose of currency to her look and resonated with many of her fellow London designers, who are letting women breathe — and eat — with more easygoing, voluminous silhouettes.