For spring 2020, Sharon Wauchob looked to her archive for inspiration. “In some regards, I was forced to [go through the archive] by the physical reality of packing and unpacking when I moved back from Paris,” she said.  

The designer, who has mined her repertoire before, showed a refined collection of just 30 looks that riffed upon some of the “greatest hits” from seasons past: wafting feathers, long fringing, diaphanous layers, fine pleats, graphic stripes and fabric sashes draped over tailoring. 

Despite the lightness of the collection, it didn’t give way to sentimentality: These are clothes for intellectuals so, while a pearl silk dress was covered in long, swishy, hand-knotted fringing, or a marshmallow-pink dress covered in sprays of ostrich feathers, the silhouettes were resolutely minimal.   

Among the collection’s other highlights were more feathered frocks in soft gray, garnet, and black; great coats; a lovely trouser suit festooned with a swath of white silk; sharply cut trousers worn under dresses, and elongated shirting for men.

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