Activism runs through Vivienne Westwood’s blood, so she wants to use every collection she designs as a platform to broadcast her message.
For spring 2020, the designer released a film to present her collection, in which she speaks of the “rotten economy” and governments’ destructive impacts on the environment. Dressed in a striking jacquard suit from the collection, she is urging her audience to adopt a less-is-more approach.
This attitude runs throughout the collection, which is unisex and tightly edited in a bid to ensure that Westwood practices what she preaches. She has also been working alongside her team to narrow down the collections and by fall 2020, is aiming to reduce the women’s offer by 50 percent and the men’s offer by 30 percent.
When she does put a collection out there, Westwood wants to ensure that it’s worth her customers’ while, creating unique pieces that can’t be found anywhere else and experimenting with cut and construction to eliminate waste during the production process.
For spring 2020 she looked to her favorite character in Comedia Dell’Arte, Pinocchio, and created abstract, round-shaped patterns on suits, cropped tops and loose dresses that came in a riot of bright primary colors, riffing on Pinocchio’s costumes.
Shirting was another big focus: Apart from patchwork shirts featuring a mix of stripes and floral fabrics gathered across the body, the designer tried to employ shirting material on tracksuits and light suits, too, many of which were cut in a triangle shape before being sewn back together, in a bid to avoid waste from fabric offcuts.
Other standouts included another Westwood classic — a kilt — done in a tartan that featured irregular lines — by an imagined drunken tailor — and a series of double-breasted suits in pastel hues, adapted for men and women.