Talk about a brand pivot!

Once known for romantic, red-carpet worthy eveningwear, Alberta Ferretti is now three seasons into a new focus on daywear “for today’s dynamic woman” — in other words, younger-looking soft tailoring, stylized pants and denim. Fashion insiders may be wondering why the change, but she says it’s paying dividends.

Denim, in particular, has been growing double-digits, said Michelle Stein, U.S. president of Ferretti parent company Aeffe. “It’s become a key category, and the silhouettes are fashion-forward, which makes it different from American brands.”

This season, Ferretti put the new formula, which leans heavily on boho separates, through a rose-colored Seventies lens. That meant tie-dyed, baggy tapered jeans and overalls; floating dégradé silk caftans anchored by leather neckpieces; suede flared pants; paper bag waist shorts; a smart-looking trench with mesh inserts; cropped silk embroidered butterfly tops, and white high neck, puff sleeve blouses. (The opening look was a patchwork denim mini, worn over a sheer sweater, which after a similar sheer knit opener at Prada, is fast becoming a spring trend.)

The colors, including peppy pinks, ochres, and watery blues and blacks for the finale, were meant to be “optimistic,” she said. “Fashion shouldn’t be so serious.”

Ferretti emphasized the hand-crafted embroideries, dip-dye techniques and leather work, but was it Made in Italy luxury? It felt more Parisian contemporary cool girl.

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