Marianna Rosati returned to Italy to mark the 10th anniversary of the label, and what a comeback it was, full of fluid, flattering shapes, feather-light leathers, and confident-looking women striding down the runway in comfortable clothes.
Rosati, a leather specialist who had been showing in Paris, said she loved the sensuality of Michelle Pfeiffer’s look in “Scarface,” and Al Pacino’s tough-edged character, too, and wanted to re-create the louche mood of the film via worn-in looking leather and languid shapes. “Even the music is cinematic,” said the bubbly Rosati. “And while this may be my customer’s film, it is also her real life.”
Rosati is known for fusing fact and fiction, and making everyday, flattering clothing with a modern, stylish edge. For spring that meant hole-punched leather dresses, belted tunics and bow blouses; beautifully fitted burnt orange leather trousers with a paper-bag waist, and a shiny and slim white coat.
Cotton dresses came with an abstract tree bark print, cutout backs, puffed sleeves and fat knot details at the front and back, while Rosati worked silk into a whole host of easy shapes, including a pleated silk dress belted at the waist, printed bow blouses knotted on the side of the neck, and a pajama suit the color of a pale rosé wine. The latter coordinated perfectly with the designer’s pink-toned hair.