Elisabetta Franchi is a fan of sailing. “I spent my whole summer on a boat,” said the Italian designer, who set her spring show on the deck of a makeshift yacht. “I love the simpleness of nautical codes — the stripes, the anchors — and wanted to work with them in a feminine way.”

Franchi’s ship was more of a party boat than your average cruise liner. The looks glittered all over, from the sequined collar of a sailor dress to Sixties-style bathing caps. Dresses were either short and bodycon, trimmed with rows of glass beads or proper evening gowns, with embroidered rhinestone strips on the upper body reminiscent of nautical knots.

The nautical inspiration was pretty literal: blazers riffed on sailor uniforms, models sported sailor caps and gold chain belts with tiny anchor charms. Pockets on a classic trenchcoat were tied with pieces of rope. Fun Eighties swimsuits were loud and tongue-in-cheek: A blue bustier design was printed with two red and white water rings around the breasts.

There were some softer looks more suited to lounging on the upper deck, such as a chic take on the Breton top in the form of a knitted ribbed dress with thin stripes or variations of a tweed suit in light colors, with fringed hems adding movement. High-waisted trousers with gold buttons as well as crisp white jackets were some of the more wearable looks, perfect for a day out cruising the Mediterranean.

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