Milan’s master of slouch and soft tailoring was in full flow, sending out a collection filled with crumpled, velvety, sheer, puckered or slubbed fabrics, quilted surfaces and silhouettes that were breezy and languid.
Colors were soft, with Giorgio Armani swerving from past seasons’ often garish palettes and prints into gentler territory, with the blues and greens on cropped animal print jackets or wrinkled velvety ones swiped from Claude Monet’s landscapes.
He also embraced the big volume trend that emerged in New York and London, layering a wide tulle trapeze dress the color of split pea soup over cropped, flared trousers; tying a fat bow around the neck of a long crumpled silk dress, and putting wide-leg trousers, for men and women alike, through the spin cycle — and no need for an iron.
Lengths were long and shapes generous, with roomy tailored and wrinkly jackets in sage or dusty rose paired with sheer, textured dresses. A generously cut silky jacket came layered over a short skirt.
The volume play didn’t work out so well with those fluid onesies for evening: Their fabric bubbled over the tops of boots and looked out of place in this otherwise laid-back, graceful collection.