A gaping hole in a black dress, a run in a knitted skirt, a blue cotton blouse left entirely backless — this isn’t the tale of a disastrous fashion show, but rather designer Marco Rambaldi’s way of dealing with life’s hardships.
“This season, the Rambaldi woman has lived through the revolution and knows what she wants,” said the 28-year-old designer backstage at his second fashion show. “She’s aware of all these mistakes around her, like politicians not behaving like they are supposed to and society being generally messed up. But she embraces these mistakes and moves on.”
Named Lapse, the collection featured silhouettes that looked perfect from the front, like a pristine high-collared shirt, but revealed circular holes in the back, held together with drawstrings. Knitwear was kept unfinished and came in either chunky, loosely knit sweaters or wispy see-through dresses in washed-out pinks and yellows that left barely anything to the imagination. A gray jacquard coat, worn over a matching top and shorts, was fastened with a piece of rope, left to dangle loosely.
Some of the pieces were made with upcycled material — “it’s a commitment because it’s a bit expensive, but once you go for it you realize it doesn’t really impact the actual business,” said Rambaldi’s business partner Filippo Giuliani, who added that the brand is preparing to launch its e-shop in a few weeks — including Seventies crochet dresses made from patches sourced from flea markets and Rambaldi’s grandmother’s personal collection.
The silhouettes had less of a DIY feel than last season, especially those paired with the brand’s new leather bag line: one a crossbody oblong satchel, the other a simple ladylike handbag, both delivered in eye-popping pastel hues. The Rambaldi woman has grown up, but that doesn’t mean she’s forgotten how to have fun.