Alessandro Dell’Acqua unsheathed his sword for spring, slashing dresses into sequined ribbons, slicing the arms of tailored jackets and lopping fabric off dresses to reveal flashes of shoulders and bare arms.
This was Dell’Acqua’s first coed show, and he gave both the men’s and women’s clothing similar treatment. He said he wanted it both restrained and erotic and was going for a “super-clean, couture” feel. One of his big inspirations was Yves Saint Laurent’s 1971 Scandal collection.
It was certainly high-drama, with men and women alike strutting in tailored suits covered in vintage Seventies flower prints, their jacket sleeves split open. Flourish also came in the form of long, floor-grazing ribbons that trailed from the backs of dresses with rounded, sculptural sleeves. Some of them were sheer and billowy, others were made from more substantial silk faille or gazar.
Even the denim had its high-octane moment, with long, thick ribbons flowing behind sculptural tops, while show climaxed with a lineup of dresses, in black or emerald green, that looked as if they’d been slashed to ribbons by a sartorial Zorro.
The volume and movement in this collection was just terrific — and the dresses were a standout. It remains to be seen, though, how practical those slashed jacket sleeves are going to be — for men and women alike — when it’s time to hail a cab, or tuck into some soup.
And in the case of those one-shoulder dresses, what happens to all that extra, hanging fabric? Best not to be the one in charge of pouring the wine at dinner.
No doubt these pieces will look great in fashion shoots, creating cool geometric angles and lovely sweeps here and there, but in real life they might be trickier.