Alexander Wang. Rockefeller Center. Fashion show. Friday night marked the cross-section of the three and the first time a fashion show took place at the iconic New York institution — fitting as the designer’s first 2020 collection (essentially spring 2020) was a celebration of American fashion’s heritage and future, and a proud exclamation of the brand’s New York roots.
“I started thinking about the pioneers that paved the way for me to be an American fashion designer and all the things about American fashion that I love that have inspired me from the beginning,” Wang noted postshow.
He broke the collection into four acts — pillars of American sportswear — that included the working woman attire; loungewear as daywear; prep; and the future of sportswear the Alexander Wang way.
He opened the working-woman grouping with a handful of powerful tailoring that included sharp shoulders and cinched waists, cut in hefty wool and leather. Those were strong and conservative propositions that stood in contrast to the more unapologetic leather mini bottoms and chenille bodysuits accented with pearl piercings at the bust.
It paved the way for the woman at ease, where bras as tops were commonplace and Ts and tanks were reworked into asymmetric and warped construction. Denim, too, was made more comfortable when spliced into the season’s shape or into barely there shorts. If this grouping proved anything, it’s that the Wang girl has confidence to spare.
The reworked prep group featured plenty of twisted classics — including polos with built-in wrap layers, blazers that both nipped and flared out, men’s and women’s denim with patchwork construction and oversize trousers.
He ended with a look toward the future, crafting an all-white grouping dedicated to the strong, nonconformist women who have inspired his brand to date. Here was reworked shirting, activewear and interesting Ts. He stamped his iteration of an American flag onto waistbands, closed a show of multiracial casting and had this pointed message to share: “I know that I’ll always love creating beautiful things and make people look and feel good, but having a platform where I can really bring people together and bridge cultures I find to be my bigger mission.”