“I think the collection grows up with me,” mused Christian Cowan backstage after his high-wattage and high-shine spring runway show. “It’s so nice, starting a brand when you’re young, because I can look back and see it’s a diary of me growing up…maybe not as deep as growing as a person. But this [collection] is really inspired by my family in Spain.” Cowan often references the fierce, strong women in his family as the muses of his namesake brand, who inspire his hyper-feminine, exciting designs that felt even more evolved this season.

For spring, the designer started by looking to his beachside hometown of Moaña, Spain. “The first thing I think of when being back home is with a towel on the beach, hanging out,” Cowan said. The show’s first look was a direct result of that: Karolina Kurkova emerged in a rhinestone-fringed and studded white terry dress, complete with a bedazzled towel wrapped around her head. Cowan sprinkled terry throughout the collection, like a new diamond checkerboard set paired with a graphic black-and-white digital knit bodysuit. Cowan noted that his new digital knits were a part of his upcoming, first collaboration with Asos; one also came as a full-length catsuit. Pastel tie-dyed denim jackets felt perfect for a seaside summer evening.

Cowan aimed to start the collection with Spain, and end it with his life in New York. He did so with over-the-top, high-volume and high-shine looks via chainmail rhinestone mini dresses, holographic club kid options and glamorous, puffed sleeve sequined frocks. A dazzling red number with ties at the wrist and rhinestone mesh at the chest stole the show. But there were also more daytime-y offerings — “pieces for women everywhere to wear,” he called them. A rhinestone, embroidered black leather trench coat or diamond checkerboard printed sheer blouse with matching denim miniskirt for those looking to dip a toe into Cowan’s compelling, sparkly world. By mixing new renditions of his fan favorites with new options, Cowan looked back at his journey while steadily pushing forward.

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