For the past few seasons, Dion Lee has played with tailoring to create a language of harmonious contrasts through his clothes — namely of concealment and revelation, masculine and feminine, sensual and utilitarian — resulting in subversive takes on workwear and utility items.

He took a more unisex approach for spring, fitting clothes on men and women, weaving a thread of toughness and edge to offset soft silhouettes. “I think it very much came from me finding that a lot of women around me are dressing in men’s clothes and I think men are more comfortable experimenting with feminine silhouettes,” Lee said after the show, adding: “I think it was about me identifying with the clothes personally, as well, and marrying my personal taste with the brand.”

He’s touched on men’s pieces in the past, and dived in fully here with a strong assortment of daring pieces for the more adventurous, such as knits with skin-baring keyholes, a sheer sweater with harness outline, or layered tanks with multiple straps.

Through a collaboration with leather goods brand Fleet Ilya, Lee punctuated soft and fluid tonal looks with sculpted bras, harnesses and garter waist belts that hook onto thigh-high boots. “It was really using this motif of hosiery and garters in both men’s and women’s wear,” Lee added.

The first look was a standout amid the opening army of white for its ability to balance full coverage with sex appeal. Additional highlights from the other monochromatic color groupings included a flesh-toned tank with garter accents and harness over fluid pants; a striped military green sweater with open-weave keyholes along the chest, and a black short suit over a multilayered corset. The one dual-toned look, a black leather jacket and drapy pink skirt hybrid that played on exposure in a tamer way, was another standout.

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