Ji Oh is making sexy girly clothes! Well, it’s not such a dramatic shift when you examine the collection more closely, but it is new territory for the designer who favors shirting and a boyish uniform aesthetic. There was more skin, and skirts heavily outnumbered pants. During a preview, she noted too that this season’s uniform was younger, less serious and referential to a traditional school uniform.
But we’re talking about a designer who often plays with experimental construction, and that pillar of her process hasn’t changed. She offered a lot of fun convertibility in mostly patchwork designs, such as a linen plaid dress you could remove the front part of the skirt to show more skin, or another linear trenchcoat dress that simultaneously shortened and bunched up with asymmetric buttons.
It applied to denim, too, which is a new category that Oh mixed with other fabrics into a cool shirtdress with denim sleeves, or kept clean in a pair of high-double-waisted jeans.
She exposed skin in a lot of creative ways, based on how she dresses personally, and a reason why she decided to take the collection in a more feminine direction for spring. Jackets were cropped, pieces detached, cutouts were made, and hidden zippers made it possible to control just how much skin you want to give away. She seamlessly blended her penchant for shirting and inclination to show skin with a great shirtdress featuring a floral sash and side cutout. Another print featuring dinosaurs and cartoon characters with missing limbs was a cheeky accent to the playful range. Dressed up, edgy, considered — there was personality here to spare.