Last season, Sam Linder’s first resort presentation took one step away from his namesake brand’s experimental use of a mélange of unexpected themes and one step toward a more directional stand-alone collection, which focused on twisted country-club prep. For spring, the designer focused even more on one clear, concise direction, which alluded to the more minimalist, clean élan of the Nineties.
“It’s pared down and a little more formal and evening than in the past,” Linder said before the show. “It’s a lot less ‘socks pulled over leggings and sneakers.’…The collection is lighter, [with] flowier fabrics, a little more [of a] going out vibe.”
The first look out of the gate: a crinkled ivory coat atop midi skirt and little bra top fastened with a silver ring and made of deadstock parachute fabric (much of the collection was made up of a deadstock parachute fabric Linder found on eBay). The rest of the lineup felt chic and concise: a little black dress, a loose crinkled suit, trousers and knee-length skirts that scooped at the waist, tailored just perfectly so and even beautiful yellow knitwear offerings.
In lieu of the designer’s expected use of sheer fabrics to emulate sexiness, he opted for open blouses tucked into paneled skirts or tops cut with deep v necks. Minimalism expanded past the excitingly fresh silhouettes and extended into tonal coloring and condensed fabrics. Spandex (now a brand staple) felt even more grown up in a printed suit and pedal-pusher silhouette.
The collection held all of the brand’s arty and cool sartorial appeal, but with a fresh, clean face.