Over the past few seasons, Marina Moscone has been hosting presentations and shows in hidden, undiscovered places in New York City. The Players Club in Gramercy provided the backdrop to the designer’s spring array, which she perfectly described as “modernist glamour.”
Like her settings, Moscone’s designs have special details that require a second look. As for her inspiration for spring, she cited “Ninth Street Women,” a book she’s reading about artists Elaine de Kooning, Helen Frankenthaler and Lee Krasner — whom she continually looks to as exemplars — and their ability to courageously and passionately overcome their male-dominated times to make their mark on the world with their work. “If you put them here today, they would be totally in context,” Moscone said coolly. “I think that’s special, the timeless appeal.”
Like her muses, Moscone’s woman is strong, powerful, unique. “Everything they [her customers] do is really meaningful and purposeful and I try to design my collections that way. I think there’s a sense of longevity [for designs] to be for today or 30 years from now.”
Timelessness is a quality the designer continually considers. Her ready-to-wear melds artistic ideas into styles that for spring loosely referenced the Sixties with simplistic, relaxed silhouettes, as well as the Nineties via minimalistic slips. The slips were painstakingly hand-marbled in her kitchen — a technique she introduced in resort — or were done in a playful floral print with lace inserts and trim. A standout look included a marbled skirt with a little hand-fringed lilac bra top layered underneath a sheer white layer and embroidered with beautiful floral stems.
Aside from her signature double cotton-basque tailored suits, some of which were constructed with built-in draping, and tunics over pants, the designer injected new techniques into her array. Smocked bustier-like tops were layered over shirts, like a wonderful black-and-white version atop a jacquard ribbon striped cotton shirt paired with a maroon skirt with tiny ruffles, while beautiful yellow and lilac dresses — sheer at the waist — had long, hanging strings that were hand-pulled through the silhouette.
The collection melded impeccable tailoring with intriguing, irresistible design and details that held appeal for today and in the future.