During a studio visit of her spring collection, Marissa Webb was feeling calm and looked relaxed. The designer is in the midst of a brand reset, cutting back on stockkeeping units  to offer a more focused identity, planning for smaller, more frequent capsule drops, and questioning the brand’s place in today’s fashion landscape.

What does it mean to be relevant today? Social media presence is definitely a factor, but the most successful brands build and maintain a loyal following. Webb has that. She has been nothing short of consistent over the years, evolving an expected tomboyish blend of military, tailoring and high-waisted touchstones in her designs.

During this reset, she’s been examining archival styles she believes could live another life, that need only a bit of reworking to be relevant today. She cut high-waisted camouflage pants with an easier leg, remade a military trench into an oversize coat with a great hand touch, and revamped dresses to be more structured and fun. Roughly 30 percent of the collection consisted of reinventions of archival styles.

Some of the best pieces balanced the masculine-feminine edge Webb leans on. Shirting, for instance, was feminine and loose, cut in a range of easy silhouettes and soft approachable colors like pastel yellow and light blue. Another sleek blush-toned wrap dress combined the sultry allure of a robe with the structure of blazer sleeves. For now, Webb is focused on working at a steady, more thoughtful pace. “It’s important to stay relevant but true to yourself,” she concluded.

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