“I was trying to be a bit more subdued and pared back,” said Maryam Nassir Zadeh postshow. ”For me it really is a different kind of collection.”

That’s an important detail for a designer who is known for having an eclectic vibe that spans a mix of ideas, periods and themes. She named several inspiration points, but the phrase she came back to repeatedly was “beach raver.”

A tiny white bikini was a literal beach reference, but a bigger part of the theme were the soft transparencies, like the lace cover-ups and a mix of tummy-baring short-sleeve shrunken knits and bra-style tops that had a downtown cool-girl mermaid vibe.

She also dabbled in some new prints, introducing a camouflage pattern in highlighter yellow, white, yellow and black, used for a long skirt made of a parachute-like fabric; styled with a brightly colored bra top, it billowed as the model walked down the runway. 

A few looks proposed clashing ideas, like a neon cropped top paired with a blue and white floral-print sarong over a khaki pant, which spoke to her magpie style of dress.

Accessories came bedazzled with embellishments, while others were clear plastic. “I’ve always been obsessed with clear things,” she said with a laugh.

She used the plastic for shoes and belts to finish several looks. Previous styles of bags were remixed, coming in larger sizes for spring and in new colorways. While her eclecticism was still apparent, the collection had a fluid ease and a proper sense of continuity.

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