Now that Peter Do has been in business for a full year, he’s finding his groove through subversive tailoring and seeing what customers gravitate toward.

The designer has a streamlined aesthetic blend of sophisticated experimentation, approachable luxury and effortless cool that has made him one of the most promising young designers to watch.

The Celine alum had an impressive debut last year that was picked up by major stockists, and upped his quota for spring 2020 to 27 accounts, including Bergdorf Goodman, Totokaelo and Dover Street Market London, where he’ll create an installation similar to the one he held this summer for his signature sheer “spacer” fabric designs.

As a young designer, it’s made sense to produce his collections ahead of his peers, utilizing the same factories before they start working on other brands post-fashion week. What has also been working is keeping the brand genuine and inviting fans to grow with the team through social media. “I feel like there’s a real connection they feel with the brand,” he noted during a preview in his new Brooklyn, N.Y., studio.

The product has also lived up to the hype. The spring collection was a shift back to daywear, focusing on expanding special knits, pants and ultrachic tailoring with bold shots of color inspired by Ellsworth Kelly. Some standout items geared more for day included softer gauge knits with “seatbelt” straps that still looked refined.

In his way of joining the eco-friendly conversation, he cut bolero-blazer convertible hybrids with buttery vegan leather blended with jersey for comfort. He continued this hybrid approach with dual-fabric pants, like a great pair with the vegan leather below and contrast cotton fabric up top where you need the breathability. A similar patchwork construction was applied to skirts, where a thick knit band provided the dual benefit of comfort and support.

There were familiar items, too, that leaned on the conceptual side of chic, including the spacer fabric cut into tailored jackets, a drastically cut pleated skirt, and similar pleated tops with open back. Even with these more experimental design inclinations, the clothes manage to have broad appeal. “We don’t want to rush anything,” Do concluded. “We just try to enjoy the process.”

Read more from WWD:

NYFW Spring 2020: What to Expect at New York Fashion Week in September

Peter Do RTW Fall 2019

Trina Turk RTW Spring 2020

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