Spring 2020 marks Emily Craig’s debut collection as the new creative director of Rebecca Taylor, following Taylor’s decision to leave her namesake brand to pursue other fashion opportunities after a year spent living in Paris with her family.
The collection was designed primarily by Craig, but the beginnings — with print and color direction — combined efforts of the two. In a prior interview with WWD, Craig mentioned wanting to follow the brand’s strong DNA and codes of “alchemy,” which is a mix of “modernity and femininity,” and she did just so.
After a trip to the Serpentine in London last Easter, Craig was influenced by the work on display of Emma Kurz, the Swiss artist and healer of the late Thirties and Forties, using it to infuse juxtapositions of graphic color, print and textural fabric blocking into the collection. There were lilac, white and mauve utilitarian shorts, Eighties-style carrot pants and cropped jacket styled with more feminine flirty knits and ruffled blouses. Meanwhile, laminated vegan leather offerings contrasted Nineties inspired floral day dresses.
Craig dotted brand codes — soft ruffles, scalloped edges, eyelet lace — into the collection on dresses and jumpsuits that melded structure and fluidity. Florals, also commonly seen in the brand’s designs, were faded out but still felt graphic and fresh, like a black-and-white jumpsuit or tiered off-the-shoulder frock with rickrack trim.
Overall, the collection fashionably mixed utility with femininity in a way that felt new, but still utterly Rebecca Taylor.