Designer Snow Xue Gao is known for blending her Chinese heritage with a New York sensibility into reworked tailored garments; for spring, she skewed more Western with a feminine and fluid collection. While there were a few familiar silk and wool menswear tailored hybrids, a majority of the collection was comprised of happy, Pop-Arty silk offerings.
The collection was inspired by a hodgepodge of American themes — the Space Age; rock ‘n’ roll muses Debbie Harry and Patti Smith; teddy boys and girls, and Pop Art — which skewed more abstract than literal on silhouettes that were (slightly) reminiscent of the Sixties and Seventies.
Silk looks were described as “hippie-inspired,” and while the description didn’t quite fit, a welcome sense of feminine fluidity ran throughout on playful Jackson Pollock-inspired graphic skirts and dresses with ribbon ties. Vibrant collage-printed shirting was paired with pristine men’s wear tailored skirts and trousers, while flowy skirts were shown with mannish blazers and crisp asymmetrically buttoned shirting. The same collage print peeked out from the hems of trousers and short, which made for fun details throughout the happy collection, as did printed scarves, which displayed the most literal takes of the inspiration with Space Age ‘scapes or the face of Harry.
The newest addition to the line came by way of cotton dual-toned mini dresses that felt mod in spirit but modern in cut, with a belt sash along the neck and brand logo at the bust. The more feminine seasonal approach can be credited to a refocused sense of the brand’s woman, who mixes the masculine and feminine.
For spring, Gao opted for a more intimate showroom appointment in lieu of a show due to busy scheduling (the designer herself was unable to attend due to a concurrent trip to Milan to prepare for an upcoming exhibition), but it provided the right context for the lively, more commercial collection.