Play clothes for billionaires.
That’s what popped into my head when I got my first look at The Row’s spring 2020 presentation, a study in luxurious understatement per usual from Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, but with a more casual — dare I say sportswear? — focus.
Think of the most precisely cut black short-sleeve camp shirt you’ve ever seen, in what appeared to be a technical fabric, cut into an A-line shape with low slant pockets, worn over black cigarette pants and transparent sandals. There you have this season’s less-is-more look bringing Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, Katharine Hepburn, Georgia O’Keeffe and many more mistresses of minimalism to mind.
A pair of white carpenter pants with the perfect heft, worn with a long-sleeve white T-shirt and woven flat shoes was Everlane for the .001 percent, while a crisp navy utility pocket midi skirt with black turtleneck and blue button-down tucked in conjured #OldCeline.
There were pieces in luxe materials to look out for, of course — a tan leather whisper-weight pencil skirt, for example, worn with a lemon-yellow button down, and a crocodile trench that was an heirloom in the making.
The designers are masters of proportion, as with the considered length of a black blazer over a pleated white poplin skirt, worn with haute Tevas and socks. Or the oversized lavender oxford shirt that fell just so over rolled-up khaki pants that Miss Hepburn would love.
Embellishment was next to nonexistent, and the more dressed-up pieces had a humble glamour, as on a collaged black-lace patchwork sundress and palazzo pants, and the most charming white cotton strapless sundress with fold-over detail at the bodice. Those searching for beauty needn’t have looked far, however — it was all there in the construction.