Continuing with a heightened level of elegance and minimal chic along the house codes of Theory (which include workwear, utility, reality, et. al.), creative director Francesco Fucci injected energy into his spring collection in the form of saturated colors and animal prints. It was a balanced approach that filtered the urban coolness of New York through his refined hand, resulting in plays on tension, including structure versus fluidity and quiet design against loud colors.

In the year he’s been at the design helm, Fucci has managed to fold in a European sensibility of elevated ease that’s made the clothes more alluring. His jumping-off point for spring was Greek and Roman sculpture, namely elements of purity and sensuality. The influence could be seen in the diaphanous drape of featherweight dresses, either styled alone or set against the structure of more traditional office attire. I think it’s the right balance,” Fucci said of the collection’s contrasts. “We need opposites to make something exciting.”

A lot of newness helped in that regard, as well. Bold tonal layering punctuated the neutral palette, with standouts including a double knit yellow dress, a pink sweater and skirt look, and a sensuous, luxe long-sleeve dress and pants cut in a deep turquoise. He added animal prints to the brand’s repertoire, and managed to make cheetah look elegant with a sleeveless top paired over a bright green dress. Other harmonious contrasts included precisely cut short blazers with sharp shoulders over a zebra-print top, open-weave crochet over a conservative skirt, and looks that layered in fluid dresses to break up serious tailoring.

Theory RTW Spring 2020

Theory RTW Spring 2020  Courtesy Photo

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