Once again fashion and music collided at the energetic Vfiles collective show, which took place on Thursday night at Brooklyn’s Barclays Center.
Performances by Rico Nasty, Erika Jayne and Brooke Candy, as well as YG, animated the event, which was organized in collaboration with London-based marketplace app Depop and which highlighted the talent of the four emerging designers selected from among an international group who submitted their applications this past summer.
The sculptures of artist Anna Uddenberg featuring women who either collapse on their suitcases or writhe out of them served as the starting point for Chinese designer Di Du, who recently graduated from the Royal College of Fine Arts Antwerp. A combination of dreamy, whimsical colors such as lilac and pink mixed with deconstructed lines and silhouettes sat at the core of her collection, which felt like the wardrobe of a space anime’s heroine. Standout pieces included teddy bear cowboy pants matched with an armor-like cutout top, a padded off-the-shoulder bodysuit with exaggerated sleeves, as well as a Seventies net mini frock featuring the halter neck made of a plastic bag handle.
Wesley Harriott’s designer Ricky Harriott, who is based in London, wanted to portray an empowered femininity with his well-executed lineup. Revamping men’s tailoring staples, he injected feminine, sensual touches in classic sartorial pieces. For example, a beige trenchcoat was embellished not only with a second belt putting extra focus on the waist, but also with cutouts on the back and a slit. The same treatment was applied to a classic men’s shirt, which was crafted from black silk and enriched with a charming curved detail on the front closure. Cutout details also popped up on minimal dresses and on a revisited burgundy leather blazer.
Depicting a post-apocalyptic era, Nico Verhaegen, who cut his teeth at Ann Demeulemeester, showed an intriguing men’s collection that played with deconstructed silhouettes, charming layering and rich textures. Putting a lot of attention in developing sustainable lineups, the designer employed CO2 neutral linen, recycled nylons and reclaimed fabrics. The looks included charming jacquard knits with a 3-D effect, deconstructed outerwear mixing different textiles and peppered by distressed or laser-cut details, as well as patchwork parachute pants.
A Central Saint Martins graduate, Pierre-Louis Auvray showed a collection inspired by his childhood obsessions, including video games. He actually collected vintage game controllers which he mixed and matched with knits and leather to create interesting armor-like leotards, mini frocks and jumpsuits. The gaming influences were matched with car and moto racing elements, reflected not only in the multicolor patches and in the typical graphics of racing outfits, but also in the eye-catching plastic applications coming from the body works of recycled bikes.