“I was inspired by Stephen Burrows and this idea of optimism and joyfulness for spring,” Victor Glemaud said during his family-gathering-style presentation.
Fans of the brand have long asked Glemaud if his work referenced the pioneering designer’s Seventies exuberance, and though not consciously, there are similar threads of vibrant color play, ease and confidence that are shared by the two brands. Glemaud’s line is steeped in modern knits in uplifting styles that can be worn year-round.
Recently, a mutual friend connected the two; though they tried to meet up in person, Burrows was traveling a lot this summer, so instead they began a conversation via e-mail. “I was really touched that he would connect with me,” Glemaud said. “He said so many things that were inspiring and really clear about what his vision was. That was my whole thing — he was very clear about his vision from the beginning.”
The lettuce trim Burrows invented could be seen on Glemaud’s spring runway: accenting a flirty twinset with matching miniskirt; on the edges of a curve-hugging polo dress, and all over a sexy little black number. Bold color play adorned an elegant one-shouldered gown, while stark black-and-white geometrics provided shorter cocktail numbers with an edge.
Glemaud also followed the lines of Burrows’ curved colorblocking, but brought his designs forward in line with contemporary fashion with jacquards and patterns that were more graphic and linear.
“There’s this quote that Pat Cleveland said that ‘Fashion builds you up to beauty,’ and for me this [collection] is the perfect encapsulation of all the things I’ve sort of been working toward the last year and a half since I’ve been showing,” Glemaud said: “He [Burrows] was trying things. That’s such a valuable lesson to try to remember today, to try and to make mistakes. Not every collection is going to be perfect, but at least you’re doing something,” he concluded.
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