Anton Belinskiy aimed to channel “well-being” with his spring collection, inspired by an old box full of coins he stumbled upon in his mother’s home, leading him to question what was important to him. “This collection is about the bits and pieces that make one feel whole and well again and again,” wrote the Ukrainian designer.
This was perhaps the logic behind the bric-a-brac and painting-inspired prints that adorned several of the designs — a still life on a men’s shirt, a rearing horse on a fleecy sweatshirt dress styled strangely with panties over the top. Draped jersey dresses were distorted with what looked to be old costume jewelry — perhaps found with the coins in that treasure box — a printed scarf formed an asymmetric bralette worn over a boxy one-sleeve T-shirt dress.
Elsewhere, interpretation was less evident. Masculine tailoring in places was splashed with pastel swirls, adorned with three-dimensional poppy embroideries and mingled with more sportswear-inspired pieces. Styled with Tim Burton-esque bouffant hairstyles, Belinskiy’s alternative feel-good universe failed to generate universal well-being, especially after the show started 53 minutes late.