For their second season at storied Rome house Capucci, Luisa Orsini and Antonine Peduzzi played with optical effects, using iridescent fabrics that change color in the light and working them into designs that can be worn in different ways to create volume.

Mikado silks were taken from Capucci’s archives, recycled into modernized cocktail separates in color-blocked brights. A cropped waistcoat in lilac silk was adorned with glow-in-the-dark beads, intended to evoke a rosary, and worn with high-waisted white pants.

A handmade black devoré gown and plissé silk dresses — orange or red, burgundy or green, depending on the light — in one-shouldered or bell-sleeved iterations nodded to the house’s couture heritage, a link the designers are keen to cultivate as they seek to modernize the label without neglecting its rich history.

Wide-brimmed “visiere” hats, adorned with beaded fringing or giant bows, added to the updated vintage feel of the collection.

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