“What I looked at this season was the Neo-Concrete art movement and especially the work of Brazilian artist Lygia Clark, which is very graphic and organic at the same time,” said creative director Marie-Christine Statz before Gauchère’s spring show.
This season, her focus was the waist, which she alternatively outlined through high-waisted shapes reminiscent of Twenties dress trousers; as circular cutouts in coats and dresses, or as embroidered outlines of breasts on the surface of tops and jackets. The opposition of circular elements with sharp tailoring nodded to Clark’s folded metal sculptures, as did the restrained color palette.
Statz explained she wanted to explore how garments could be deconstructed and wrapped around the body. “In her work, there’s a lot going over the edges or working with the borders,” she said. “For example, there are jackets with slit elbows that can be worn as capes, feminine corset elements that are underneath are layered on top of tailored jackets.”
Summer-weight wools, crisp poplin and denim broke up the formalism of the suiting and skewed the collection in a lighter direction that suited Gauchère’s masculine-feminine dichotomy.