“A summer rain,” Christophe Lemaire said after a show that stayed thankfully dry in the open courtyard of the École Duperré, despite worrisome black clouds and a distribution of umbrellas.
“We liked this idea of having fabrics with a wet effect,” added partner Sarah-Linh Tran. “We wanted to work around quite defined silhouettes and wet blacks.” This translated into an opening group of dark silhouettes, the kind of elongated looks Lemaire is known for, cut from chintz, coated cottons in various weights and occasional details in glossy wooden pearls — similar to those on orthopedic seat covers used by Parisian taxi drivers.
The duo did away with any embellishment, hewing close to the body by taking cues from the sparse elegance of judo outfits. Those informed the curved legs and padded detailing, notably self-tie belts that cinched jackets and coats, continuing down around the ankle on sandals with puffy straps.
The monochromatic silhouettes looked dipped in single color baths, moving onto a palette of almost neutrals of off-white, blush pinks, caramels and chocolate with the odd sage green — all tones that flatter the skin. “We like clothes to be a kind of new nudity,” Tran said. “This is a kind of makeup for the body.”
Standouts included the liquid black oversize jumpsuit that opened the show; a short blouson with wide lapels paired with a simple shirt and high-waisted trousers with a cummerbund effect, in sage green; curve-legged cropped trousers and curve-skimming dresses that bared the back.
It made for a straightforward collection filled with desirable pieces that felt as light and easy as a summer shower.