Maiko Kurogouchi called her collection “Embrace,” drawing inspiration from the silkworms she watched spin cocoons in her studio, and from the traditional art of wrapping in her native Japan.
“The beauty of transformation inspired me in this collection,” she explained backstage before her first runway display during Paris Fashion Week after three seasons presenting in the French capital.
Kurogouchi imagined what it would be like to be a silkworm and see the world — particularly nature — before hatching. That informed the transparency and sometimes voluminous shapes, such as the jacket and skirt made of various layers of fringed PVC sheets resembling feathers.
A modern ease and green leitmotif infused Kurogouchi’s clothes for spring. Cue to a green textured jumpsuit peeking out from a floral-patterned lace jacket with kimono-style sleeves and a cinched waist. There was a long white transparent dress with pink flowers and leaves showing through an under layer.
This delicate, lovely collection demonstrated Kurogouchi’s keen attention to fine materials, such as silk, brocade and knits, and her deft ability to juxtapose a variety of them. The designer collaborated with Tod’s on the show sandals.