“Beginning” was the word Kei Ninomiya chose to describe the season. “I wanted to go back to the basic mind of my creation, and that was the beginning of the collection,” he said after the show.
In his case, back to basics meant a renewed focus on assembling garments without sewing, a fundamental tenet of the brand. It was ribbons woven through plastic elements and rived into place at one extremity on one silhouette. On another, long strips of green tulle were threaded around large rings to fix them into place, and finished with heat-bonded black tips to create a marabou feather effect.
The collection itself read as a metaphor for creation, in the cosmological sense, although vegetal headdresses and mossy skullcaps created by artist Azuma Makoto hinted at nature, as did the green tone that was the surprising detail of the season.
Opening with pearls bristling outward like an explosion, the show continued with silhouettes on which clouds of tulle expanded and contracted, eventually settling into spiky resin shapes. The latter had a passing resemblance to scientific models of light behaving as a particle and a wave. Concretions of mossy tones, fern forms and rounded leaves formed topiary shapes. Swamp Thing also came to mind.
His experiments might be most visible in sculptural silhouettes but that doesn’t mean he doesn’t push the envelope in quieter pieces. There were biker blousons with attachments that curled around the body like exoskeletons, finished with spine-like elements on the back. Trousers and smart shirts peeked from under sculptural wrappings and he tweaked jackets, changing their proportions or slicing away backs.